Everything about Brittany totally explained
Brittany (in ; in, ;
Gallo:
Bertaèyn) is a former independent
kingdom and
duchy, and a
province of France. It is also, more generally, the name of the cultural area whose limits correspond to the old province and independent duchy. Brittany is one of the six
Celtic nations. It was at one time called "Lesser Britain".
The historical province of Brittany was split between two modern-day
régions of
France. 80% of Brittany has become the
région of
Bretagne, while the remaining 20% of Brittany (
Loire-Atlantique département with its
préfecture Nantes, one of the former capitals of the duchy of Brittany) has been grouped with other historical provinces (
Anjou,
Maine, and so on) to create the
région of
Pays-de-la-Loire (that is "lands of the
Loire"). For the reasons behind the splitting-up of Brittany, and the current debate regarding reunification, see the
Bretagne article.
Brittany occupies a large
peninsula in the northwest of France, lying between the
English Channel to the north and the
Bay of Biscay to the south. Its land area is 34,034 km² (13,137 sq mi). The historical province of Brittany is divided into five departments: to the west is
Finistère,
Côtes-d'Armor lies to the North,
Ille-et-Vilaine is in the north-east,
Loire-Atlantique is to the south-east and
Morbihan lies in the middle, bordering the Bay of Biscay.
In January 2006 the population of Brittany was estimated at 4,300,500 inhabitants. 72% of these live in the Bretagne
région, while 28% of these live in the Pays-de-la-Loire
région. At the 1999 census, the largest metropolitan areas were
Nantes (711,120 inhabitants),
Rennes (521,188 inhabitants), and
Brest (303,484 inhabitants).
History
Brittany's traditional and popular history is equally intertwined with the
Matter of Britain and
Matter of France, for the Breton and Gallo speaking regions respectively. Although much is remarked of Brittany's ancient Celtic links with Britain and for the sake of its western population, Brittany's modern or political history is stereotyped as merely a French, or "
Gallo-Romance" matter. This is a misconception, since the Gallo section (part of
Latin Europe) of Brittany reforged links with Britain, albeit as
Normandy's "sidekick". The
Hundred Years' War has obscured these facts, as well as the
Romano-British nature of the
Breton people (both Celtic and Romance.)
While the
1066 conquest of England gave control of that kingdom to Normandy via Normans in
London, Brittany was imbued with junior status in
Northern England via
Bretons in Richmond. The relative positions of the Norman Dukes in London to Breton Dukes in Richmond during the Mediaeval period, wasn't unlike the
Primacy of Canterbury above the
Province of York, itself formerly superior to Scottish bishops (until cancelling the
Treaty of Falaise disestablished York's control in Scotland, except
Whithorn).
As the Normans encroached upon
Wales, Bretons would simultaneously be influential in
Scotland. Important Breton personages in Scottish history were
Conan IV, Duke of Brittany,
John of Brittany, Earl of Richmond,
Thomas Randolph, 1st Earl of Moray (FitzRandolph of
Middleham), Brian FitzAlan, Lord FitzAlan of
Bedale (Viceroy of Scotland for
Edward I of England). The
pro-Bruce Randolph and
pro-Balliol Alan families were illegitimate lines of the
counts and dukes of Penthièvre, with permanent lodgings and responsibilities at
Richmond Castle.
Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond (future King Henry VII) spent quite some time living in Brittany (1471 - 1485). The
Tudor dynasty was
Welsh and Henry incorporated the
White Greyhound of Richmond into his arms, while this animal (or the
whippet) is still a favourite pet of
Dalesmen to this day. As a result of the
Valois Crown incorporating Brittany to France, the Tudors made Brittanys Richmond estate into a permanent
appanage of the Royal Family, with
Henry FitzRoy, 1st Duke of Richmond and Somerset being the first bastard it was conferred upon.
Support from the Vikings
Following the successful example of the
Cornish-Viking alliance in 722 at the
Battle of Hehil (modern day Padstow) which helped stop for a time the Anglo-Saxon conquest of Cornwall, the Bretons made friendly overtures to the Danish
Vikings to help contain Frankish expansionist ideas, and in 865 AD the Vikings and Bretons united as one to defeat a Frankish army at the
Battle of Brissarthe, near modern day
Le Mans. Two Frankish kings,
Robert the Strong and
Ranulf were killed by the Vikings and the Franks were forced to acknowledge Brittany's independence from the
Frankish kingdoms. As with
Cornwall in 722, the Vikings tactically helped their Breton allies by making devastating pillaging raids on the Frankish kingdoms.
Sights
Brittany is famous for its
megalithic monuments, which are scattered over the
peninsula, the largest alignments are near Karnag/
Carnac. The purpose of these monuments is still unknown, and many local people are reluctant to entertain speculation on the subject. The words
dolmen (from "daol" table and "maen" stone) and
menhir (from "maen" stone and "hir" long) are Breton and commonly used by either Breton or French people.
Brittany is also known for its
calvaries, elaborately carved sculptures of crucifixion scenes, to be found at crossroads in villages and small towns, especially in Western Brittany.
Besides its numerous intact
manors and
châteaux, Brittany also has several old
fortified towns. The walled city of
Saint-Malo (
Sant-Maloù), a popular tourist attraction, is also an important
port linking Brittany with
England and the
Channel Islands. It also was the birthplace of the historian
Louis Duchesne, acclaimed author
Chateaubriand, famous corsair
Surcouf and explorer
Jacques Cartier. The town of
Roscoff (
Rosko) is served by
ferry links with England and
Ireland.
Significant urban centres include:
» *
Nantes
*
Rennes » *
Brest
*
Lorient » *
Quimper
*
Vannes » *
Redon
*
Saint-Brieuc » *
Saint-Nazaire
The island of
Ushant (Breton:
Enez Eusa, French:
Ouessant) is the north-westernmost point of Brittany and France, and marks the entrance of the English Channel. Other islands off the coast of Brittany include:
» *
Bréhat / enez Vriad
*
Batz / enez Vaz
» *
Molène / Molenez
*
Sein / enez Sun
» *
Glénan islands / inizi Glenan
*
Groix / enez Groe
» *
Belle Île / ar Gerveur
*
Houat / Houad
» *
Hoëdic / Edig
*
Île-aux-Moines / Enizenac'h
» *
Île-d'Arz / an Arzh
Language
French, the only
official language of the French Republic, is today spoken throughout Brittany. The two
regional languages have no official status with regards to the state, although they're supported by the regional authorities within the strict constitutional limits:
Breton, strongest in the west but to be seen all over Brittany, is a
Celtic language most closely related to
Cornish, and
Gallo, which is spoken in the east, is one of the
Oïl languages.
From the very beginning of its history and despite the end of the independence of Brittany, Breton remained the language of the entire population of western Brittany, except for bishops and French administrators or officers. French laws and economic pressure led people to abandon their language to that of the ruler, but until the 1960s, Breton was spoken and understood by the majority of the western inhabitants. Since the beginning of the 20th century, it has been very efficiently fought by the French administration and educational system (
"It is forbidden to spit on the ground and to speak Breton") in the process of promoting
French as the sole language of the country. According to an interview with Erwan Le Coadic, the development officer of the Breton Language Service, "Over the course of the twentieth century, the policies of the government in Paris were calculated to eradicate the use of Breton completely". While he says that there are signs that the "situation has now stabilized", he points to the "almost catastrophic decline" in the Breton language: "Fifty years ago, there were 1,300,000 people who spoke Breton; today there are just 300,000".
Breton was traditionally spoken in the west (the "
Breizh-Izel" or "
Basse-Bretagne"), and Gallo in the east (the "pays Gallo", "Breizh-Uhzel" or "
Haute-Bretagne"). The dividing line stretched from Plouha on the north coast to a point to the south-east of Vannes. French had, however, long been the main language of the towns. The Breton-speaking area formerly covered territory much further east than its current distribution.
In the Middle Ages, Gallo expanded into formerly Breton-speaking areas. Now restricted to a much reduced territory in the east of Brittany, Gallo finds itself under pressure from the dominant Francophone culture. It is also felt by some to be threatened by the Breton
language revival which is gaining ground in territories that were never part of the main Breton-speaking area.
Privately funded
Diwan ("Seed") schools, where classes are taught in Breton by the immersion method, play an important part in the revival of the Breton language. The issue of whether they should be funded by the State has long been, and remains, controversial. Some bilingual classes are also provided in ordinary schools.
Despite the resistance of French administration, bilingual (Breton and French) road signs may be seen in some areas, especially in the traditional Breton-speaking area. Signage in Gallo is much rarer.
A large influx of English-speaking immigrants and
second-home owners in some villages sometimes adds to linguistic diversity.
Religion
The first Christian missionaries came to the region from
Ireland and
Great Britain. With more than 300 "
saints" (only a few recognized by the Catholic Church), the region is strongly
Catholic. Since the nineteenth century at least, Brittany has been known as one of the most devoutly Catholic regions in France, in contrast to many other more secularised areas (see "
Bl. Julien Maunoir"). The proportion of students attending Catholic private schools is the highest in France. As in other Celtic regions, the legacy of
Celtic Christianity has left a rich tradition of local saints and monastic communities, often commemorated in place names beginning
Lan,
Lam,
Plou or
Lok. The
patron saint of Brittany is Santez Anna
Saint Anne, the Virgin's mother. But the most famous saint is Saint
Ivo of Kermartin ('saint Yves' in French, 'sant Erwan' in Breton), a 13th century priest who devoted his life to the poor.
Once a year, believers go on a "
Pardon", the saint's
feast day of the
parish. It often begins with a procession followed by a mass in honour of the saint. There is always a secular side, with some food and craft stalls. The three most famous Pardons are:
- from Sainte-Anne d'Auray/Santez-Anna-Wened, where a poor farmer in the 17th century explained how the saint had ordered him to build a chapel in her honour.
- from Tréguier/Landreger, in honour of St Yves, the patron saint of the judges, advocates, and any profession involved in justice.
- from Locronan/Lokorn, in honour of St Ronan, with a troménie (a procession, 12 km-long) and numerous people in traditional costume,
In Brittany, there's a very old pilgrimage called the Tro Breizh (tour of Brittany), where the pilgrims walk around Brittany from the grave of one founder saint to another. The seven founder saints of Brittany are:
St Pol Aurelian, at Saint-Pol-de-Leon/Kastell-Paol,
St Tudual (sant Tudwal), at Tréguier/Landreger,
St Brieuc, at Saint-Brieuc/S-Brieg,
St Malo, at Saint-Malo/S-Maloù,
St Samson of Dol, at Dol,
St Patern, at Vannes/Gwened
St Corentin (sant Kaourintin), at Quimper/Kemper
Historically, the pilgrimage was made in one trip (a total distance of around 600 km). Nowadays, however, pilgrims complete the circuit over the course of several years. In 2002, the Tro Breizh included a special pilgrimage to Wales, symbolically making the reverse journey of the Welshmen Sant Paol, Sant Brieg, and Sant Samzun. Whoever doesn't make the pilgrimage at least once in his lifetime will be condemned to make it after his death, advancing only by the length of his coffin each seven years.
Some old pagan traditions and customs from the old Celtic religion have also been preserved in Brittany. The most powerful folk figure is the Ankou or the "Reaper of Death". Sometimes a skeleton wrapped in a shroud with the Breton flat hat, sometimes described as a real human being (the last dead of the year, devoted to bring the dead to Death), he makes his journeys by night carrying an upturned scythe which he throws before him to reap his harvest. Sometimes he's on foot but mostly he travels with a cart, the Karrig an Ankou, drawn by two oxen and a lean horse. Two servants dressed in the same shroud and hat as the Ankou pile the dead into the cart, and to hear it creaking at night means you've little time left to live.
Gastronomy
Although some white wine is produced near the Loire, the traditional drinks of Brittany are:
cider (Breton: sistr) - Brittany is the second largest cider-producing region in France;
a sort of mead made from wild honey called chouchen;
an apple eau de vie called lambig.
Some hogdys are also produced. Historically Brittany was a beer-producing region. However, as wine was increasingly imported from other regions of France, beer drinking and production slowly came to an end in the early to mid 20th century. In the 1970s, due to a regional comeback, new breweries started to open and there are now about 20 of them.
Whisky is also produced by a handful of distilleries with excellent results. Another recent drink is kir Breton (crème de cassis and cider) which may be served as an apéritif.
Tourists often try a mix of bread and red wine.
Very thin, wide pancakes made from buckwheat flour are eaten with ham, eggs and other savoury fillings. They are usually called galettes (Breton galetes), except in the western parts of Brittany where they're called crêpes (Breton krampouezh). Thin crêpes made from wheat flour are eaten for dessert. Other pastries, such as kouign amann ("butter cake" in Breton) made from bread dough, butter and sugar, or far, a sort of sweet Yorkshire pudding, or clafoutis with prunes, are traditional.
Surrounded by the sea, Brittany offers a wide range of fresh sea food and fish, especially mussels and oysters. Among the sea food specialities is cotriade.
Climate
Located on the west coast of France, Brittany has a warm, temperate climate. Rainfall occurs regularly - which has helped keep its countryside green and wooded, but sunny, cloudless days are also common.
In the summer months, temperatures in the region can reach 30 degrees Celsius, but remain comfortable compared to parts of France south of the Loire. Brittany generally has a moderate climate during both summer and winter, and rain isn't uncomfortably common or rare.
Brittany's most popular summer resorts are on the south coast (La Baule, Belle Île, Gulf of Morbihan), although the wilder and more exposed north coast also attracts summer tourists.
Transport
There are several airports in Brittany serving destinations in France and England. TGV train services link the region with cities such as Paris, Lyon, Marseille, and Lille in France. In addition there are ferry services that take passengers, vehicles and freight to Ireland, England and the Channel Islands.
Brittany Ferries operates the following regular services:
Plymouth-Roscoff (Pont-L'Abbé, Pont-Aven, certain winter sailings operated by Bretagne)
Portsmouth-St Malo (Bretagne with winter service operated by Pont-Aven)
Roscoff-Cork (Pont-Aven, occasionally Bretagne)
Irish Ferries operates the following routes:
Rosslare-RoscoffFurther Information
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